Tuesday 18 September
It's local restaurant week in
Cincinnati, and about 20 places were running specials of $33 for a 3-course
meal. We decided to go someplace new,
and chose View Cucina for its appetizing-sounding menu, and also because
Tuesdays are half-price wine night.
View is one of those places that's
in a local apartment building, and as it clings to the side of a hill
overlooking Eden Park and the river, it does have a patio with a spectacular
view. The weather was a bit brisk, but
we had come prepared with jackets, and they kindly set us up at a nice table
with soft cushions on the chairs, interesting warm bread and herb butter, and
even took our picture.
Our appetizers were shrimp
beignets in a sweet pepper aioli, and empanadas stuffed with duck confit in
barbeque sauce. Both were fine, and we
enjoyed a bottle of Frei Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon (chocolatey, with a lot of
soft Merlot character) along with them.
The second course was a cup of
butternut squash soup with maple and cinnamon, sweet as a cupcake, only cut by
a sprinkle of smoked blue cheese; and a marinated green bean and asparagus
salad in honey-balsam vinaigrette; again, the sweet was cut by a minuscule
package of salt in the shape of some lardons of braised pork belly.
For main courses, we chose a
little pan-seared filet mignon rubbed with pepper, cocoa, and brown sugar (are
you sensing a theme here?), doused with bourbon cream sauce and a lump of
bison-bacon paté, served on a soft bed of scalloped sweet potatoes with some
soft slices of summer squash; and two slices of duck breast, also pan-seared,
with grappa and dried cherry sauce, on pumpkin apple risotto, also with slices
of squash.
This is where the chef showed off
all his faults. The pan that he was "searing"
in couldn't have been more than warm, so the flour coating that should have
made the duck slices crisp became slimy, while that nice piece of filet mignon
was greyish medium instead of the medium rare we had asked for. And his sweet-tooth took over, leaving both
vegetable beds sugary and almost indistinguishable, though one tasted more like
my grandmother's tzimmis than the other.
We're actually glad they ran out of the venison osso buco we had come
for, as it came with bacon and pineapple sauce!
Certainly no Italian could
produce, or eat, this kind of food. So
sorry, View - you have a view, but no cucina.
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