Tuesday 26 May
As we had enjoyed the spirit of this place so much on the day we arrived in Croatia, we returned on our tour's day in Split. Again, we caught the staff on break, though this time we were early for lunch rather than dinner, and got seats on the shaded lower terrace, where the chairs are comfier.
We started with a bottle of the same Vugava Lipanović white we enjoyed yesterday, and a pretty plate of seafood Salata Dalmacija.
Though it was hot, our kind headwaiter convinced us to try Dalmatinska pašticada, slices of rumpsteak braised for 24 hours with aromatic vegetables, plums, and a hint of mustard, served with housemade gnocchi to sop up the aromatic, slightly fruity sauce. It was delicious, and we'd have shown a photo, but it just looked like a plate of brownness.
Our other choice was Kučice, i.e. vongole - clams, to you, in winy buttery herby garlicky sauce. And as we finished our meal, our friendly headwaiter even consented to join Barbara for a picture.
That evening we finally got a decent hotel: the Pinija in Petrčane, a quiet wooded peninsula outside Zadar.
We grabbed an evening swim in their excellent indoor pool, enjoyed a buffet where some dishes were unusual and most of them fresh, the waiter presented the wine bill nicely, and the evening ended with a scenic walk around the pebbly coast among the pines.