Sole-Salmon Quenelles with Tomato Cream

Saturday 19 July

As our careful reader will remember, a couple of days ago we had about six ounces of frozen sole fillets left to do something with.  Sole is perfect for mousses and molds, so we dug around for a matching packet of salmon tail pieces and put them together to make quenelles, according to Julia's classic The Way to Cook recipe, as follows.

Quenelles

1 or 2 cups skinned, boneless white fish, or shellfish such as scallops or shrimp (sole and salmon, as above)


1 large egg


½-1 cup heavy cream, as needed


1 tsp. salt


½ tsp. white pepper


½ tsp. nutmeg


1 Tbsp. cognac


1 cup breadcrumbs from fresh white bread, as needed

Cut fish into chunks and drop into food processor, along with egg, seasoning, brandy and ½ cup cream. Process until smooth.  Consistency should be similar to mashed potatoes, but mousse should hold its shape. Add cream a spoonful at a time if mousse is too thick or breadcrumbs (or more seafood) ¼ cup at a time if it is too thin. Mousse at this point can be refrigerated or frozen for later use.  It will keep in the refrigerator for about 10 days or in the freezer for 30 days.

In another saucepan, make a sauce by melting butter and sautéeing chopped onion and fresh tomato; when it breaks down a bit, drench with heavy cream; and Julia adds a shot of dry vermouth.  Season to taste, and keep warm.

To make the quenelles:

Fill a large pan with water and add ½ tsp. salt; bring to a boil over high heat.  Fill a jar with ice-cold water and place two metal soup spoons in the water. When pan is at a rolling boil, reduce heat to medium high, and begin forming quenelles.  Remove a soup spoon from the water and dip it into the fish mousse, bringing up a rounded glob the shape of the spoon; mold with the other spoon.  Slip the quenelle into the water.  If mousse begins to stick to the spoon, re-wet in the icy water and continue.  The quenelles will float in the water as they cook; the water should be kept at a gentle boil. The quenelles are done when they roll over easily and hold their shape reliably. Remove quenelles when they are done and drain on paper towels. Cook in batches until all the fish mousse is used up.

Cooked quenelles will keep in the refrigerator for 10 days and in the freezer for 30 days.  We had enough for two meals, so we put half in the fridge and proceeded to lavish the rest with the tomato cream sauce.

Some marinated green beans went on the side, as a palate freshener and salad, but really, the sauce was a side dish on its own.