Tuesday 19 May
There was a rave-up about Dvor in Time Out, so today we thought we'd go to a nearby beach and hit it for lunch. But Split turns out to be eccentric about street signs, or indeed any signs you want to see. They are happy to give out tourist maps, but they only vaguely reflect the actual location of things. So we walked right past Dvor - no sign - and down to the beach, up to the road, asking local residents every time we could catch one. And after an hour of walking, we eventually found it tucked into a driveway alongside a tennis club.
Once finally seated on their pine-shaded and very scenic patio, we were treated to an upscale experience, with well-trained waiters shuttling upscale food from an outdoor kitchen right on the patio to the top terrace and to switchbacks all the way down the cliffside. We started with wines, of course: Sladić Maraština (the most flavorful) and Graševina Adzic (two new grapes!). Our very young and serious waiter then brought an amuse bouche of green olives and thin pancake with greens inside, dashed with dark olive oil. Our mains were sea bass en papillote on a bed of painstakingly diced potatoes and zucchini with herbs; and fresh fettucine and rocket with sauce made of Istrian truffles, sweet wine, and cream. And as a final touch before our (eventual) swim, there was lagniappe of shotglasses of whipped mascarpone topped with fig.
Oh, and then there was dinner, for which we had Apetit - no, went to Apetit. This is a second-floor place with a youngish clientele and a bit of a buzz. The service was no less assiduous than at Dvor, though more modern, and we got glasses of classic Pošip from Čara and a local Galić Chardonnay blend, to go with the really excellent bread and slightly smoky local olive oil.
We ordered grilled whole squid with tentacles and roasted vegetables, and fresh panfried hake steak with roast vegetables, and they were simply cooked, sparkling fresh, and beautifully presented.
If we keep eating full meals at both lunch and dinner, we're going to die; but we'll die happy.