Thursday 21 May
It was rainy and cold, so we didn't want to walk far from Asmosia's venue for lunch. So we went back to Korta, and ordered glasses of their own Korta Paradox (which was almost our whole day yesterday) red wine. One main was grilled lamb chops with a drizzle of sauce, served on a potato pancake (we're just trying to keep warm).
The other was a more inventive tranche of smoked fresh monkfish with caraway seeds and fresh lemon thyme on a bed of barley with golden raisins, with creamed sea-fennel and leek.
That evening we went for a more upmarket (actually, across from the fish market) experience, the restaurant Noštromo, a local favorite for special occasions. Though we didn't have a reservation, the head waiter looked us over and nodded us in, bearing out our observation that if you are in a city, you get no breaks if you look like you're going to the beach or for a hike (we are tourists, but we don't wear sneakers, shorts, or baseball caps).
We started by ordering Frajona vineyard's Žlahtina white (new grape!) from Vrbnik on the island of Krk (which lost heavily in the Battle for the Vowels), and enjoying some good soft whole wheat bread and olive oil (natch) along with it.
Noštromo is famous for its fish, of course, which they show you on a tray, and occasionally flap around to show you how fresh it is.
We chose a bright red scorpion (new fish!) big enough for two, which came back grilled perfectly and swimming in smoky oil, with big lemon wedges to squeeze.
Also, because it seems to be the national side dish, a plate of smothered chard with potatoes.
We don't usually yearn for desserts, but as we nibbled away at our fish, we saw a couple having martini glasses full of local strawberries with maraschino (not the sickly red stuff, but a real liqueur). Unfortunately they were out of the strawberries, but our kind headwaiter got us each a plate of sliced melon with a couple of strawberries and a cherry, and poured the maraschino over that.
It's expensive, and cash-only, but as predicted, Noštromo is perfect for a special occasion.