Friday March 7
This was inspired by a combination of the Epicurious recipe for Pork Tenderloin With Sauteed Onion And Fennel And Fennel Cream and our own previous invention of Pork with Fennel Three Ways. It takes less time, is simpler, and we think tastier than either.
So start by seasoning four thick (ca. 1/2 inch, but be broadminded) slices of pork tenderloin with fennel seed (ground up in your spice grinder) and white pepper (ditto). Let them sit awhile to marinate. And on another chopping block, mince up a shallot to have handy.
Now quarter, core, and thinly slice a fennel bulb, reserving a few fronds for decoration. (With fronds like these, who needs anemones?) Heat olive oil in a pan and sauté the fennel for five minutes or so, then add a good glug of white wine, another grind or three of fennel seed, and some kosher salt. Cover the pan, turn down the heat, and let it braise for 15-20 minutes, until tender.
About five minutes before the braise is due to be done, heat more oil in another pan, salt your tenderloin slices, and brown them over medium-high heat. As they're boneless, they'll probably go quickly, about five minutes total. When they're browned but still pink in the middle, take them out and put them on a plate in a warm oven, to rest while you do the sauce.
In the still-oily pork pan, sauté the previously-minced shallot, then deglaze with just a dribble of white wine. (The Epicurious recipe would have you boil down a total of TWO CUPS of wine and chicken broth to make this sauce - wildly unneccessary even if serving four, not to mention introducing an alien taste of chicken to a pork dish). Add about 1/3 cup of heavy cream, and let it reduce until it's thick and saucelike. The shallot adds a nice brown oniony note to the sauce.
Assemble your plates by piling braised fennel on the bottom, tenderloins in the middle, and sauce on the top; garnish with fennel fronds, the third of our three types of fennel. This dish gets the best out of all three.
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