Friday June 19
Lunch outdoors at Café Gigon, just outside the Biblioteca Nacional, where we'd been manuscripting. The set menu was not memorable (don't EVER order pasta in Spain - it's usually overboiled), but the setting and service were elegant, and they had those wonderful fans that blow cold mist over the diners.
In the evening, went out to La Trucha, a traditional-looking place with wicker chairs and tiled walls. Service was friendly and quick, and the food was excellent. We started with mixed appetizers, or Verbena de Canapés - little toasts with anchovies, tuna, smoked salmon and bacalao, and even caviar. Trucha a la Truchada (and how can you not?) was butterflied fried trout, with a stuffing of bacon/ham in the middle. Emperador a la plancha: swordfish scattered with garlic and herbs, with casseroled potatoes, mayonnaise and lemon. And a vin blanco (Rueda) di Madrid: Solar de la Vega.
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