Friday August 15
Though it's not the meat gravy of Barbara's childhood among the Neapolitans, Marcella Hazan's recipe makes a damn good ragù.
The various brownings in milk and wine take about an hour, and then the sauce is supposed to simmer another three. But Holt made a slightly quicker version which preserved the chunks of fresh Roma tomato from the farmers' market. Just toss with hot spaghetti, grate some romano on top, and you're happy, especially when you have a glass of red Vinho do Poeta 2006, a very nice wine for the price.
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