Gnocchi Tartufati e Fontina

Friday May 23

Though making fresh potato gnocchi and finding good Italian-style fontina are both difficult, Trader Joe's has both, and makes this complicated-sounding dish actually quick and simple. Come to think of it, the black truffle oil came from TJ's too, so it's not even that expensive.

Start boiling the water for a tray of TJ's gnocchi. In the meantime, heat butter, about 4 ounces grated fontina, and a good glug of heavy cream in a pan until thick and smooth. Keep it ready on low, and also have a warm bowl or casserole, with a spoonful of black or white truffle oil in it, standing by.

Boil gnocchi for 4-6 minutes, until they float and taste done. Drain, and then toss in the bowl with truffle oil, adding more if you feel like it. Then toss the fontina sauce in on top of that, and mix. Serve hot and immediately.

We made this very Italian meal at the very Italian hour of 10 PM, after getting home from the chi-chi Spring opening at the Contemporary Art Center. It took minutes, and hit the spot left empty by a long "performance" piece about pasta salad.

The only thing that would improve this would be shaving some fresh truffles over the top, the way we had it at Paris (not the city, the restaurant in Trastevere).