(Thurs. 30 Nov. 06)
Despite the romantic aura of To Have and Have Not, the dockside was grey and drizzly, and our morning snorkeling excursion rather lackluster. But that evening was our first chance to get the Tastings @ 2 menu at the Veranda Café. Seven complex dishes are served, and in the usual modernist mode, the diners are completely in the power of the chef. Luckily, Chef Willy was pleasant and easy to talk to, and the servers didn't blindfold us and make us inhale bubbles full of licorice essence.
First: Caviar on top of foggy potatoes (shot out of the thermo-whip); absolutely delicious, though the little lobster salad underneath was slightly out of tune.
Second: sushi rolls with centers of seared flank steak and barbequed salmon, and a duck confit pop, all with various sauces and dips.
Third: tea-smoked game (but what sort?) cleverly set up in a cafetière to produce bouillon pressé, served with chestnut spätzle; a honey-spiced squab and fig empanada; and a luscious cup of porcini and chestnut "cappucino."
Fourth: post-modern surf and turf, i.e. a tiny grilled beef tenderloin with mushrooms and truffled emulsion next to a "floating lobster" on pesto cream with red-pepper fondue and lime froth.
Fifth: sweet and sour apple snow and granny smith confit; a palate-cleanser.
Sixth: heavenly beignets stuffed with apricot jam, with calvados ice cream and shots of bittersweet chocolate milk. Deceptively innocent.
Seventh: the nightcap, orange amaretto. Sweet dreams.
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