Thursday, November 16, 2006

Garbage Stew

This is an old Fear and Loathing Cookbook favorite, our way of getting a third meal out of one roast chicken. But what's left when you've eaten the breasts (first meal, with root vegetables) and legs/thighs (second meal, with risotto cakes and leeks)? The carcass, that's what, with lovely scraps to pull off it and save, along with the first meal's leftover roasted vegetables. Garbage stew takes two nights to make, but the first can be accomplished while you're cooking something else for dinner.
So, first night. You've denuded the carcass of the larger bits of chicken, so now make broth from it. Break it up and stuff it into a small pot with the requisite half onion, celery tops, and a few peppercorns, but just barely submerge it in water: you're not making soup, you're making just enough stock to envelop the stew. Let this cook at lowest simmer (one bubble, then another) for a couple of hours - have your dinner, do the dishes. When the broth looks rich and golden-green, strain it into a pyrex bowl. Put the broth into the fridge, and pick over what's left in the sieve for the last good scraps of chicken, and maybe a few onion shreds - limp but tasty. Save those with the other chicken scraps and vegetables.
Second night: the stew itself. Take the broth out of the fridge, and carefully lift the layer of schmaltz off its jellied surface with a fork. In a stewpot, melt the schmaltz, add a bit of oil, and sauté a chopped onion, then a couple of diced potatoes. Then add the broth and let the potatoes get lovely and tender while absorbing some liquid. Add a diced parsnip or three after 15 minutes or so. Finally, throw in your leftover chicken and vegetables, and let them marry and warm up.
The result is served in a bowl, and you eat it with a spoon, but it's definitely not soup. In fact, it's like the inside of a chicken pot pie, without the bother of a crust.

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