Sunday, October 22, 2006

Enchiladas

We pride ourselves on being able to squeeze three or sometimes four meals out of a chicken. Part of it is our Depression childhoods--all right, our mothers'--part the engrained habits of having been starving artists in a garret in Paris--all right, hungry graduate students in New Haven and Cambridge--and part the sheer art form of extracting all the good out of a piece of protein. From one chicken we have a breast meal, a leg and thigh meal, then make stock or soup from the carcass, then pick the bones.
When you've accumulated enough meat bits, you can use them in my mother's enchiladas, handed down from hacienda to hacienda since--all right, probably from Southern Living, c. 1970.
2 parts grated cheese (Monty Jack or the like) to
2 parts chopped-up meat bits to
1 part minced onions
just enough yogurt to bind
Flavor with huge quantities of ground coriander, ground cumin, and chopped fresh coriander, plus a healthy shot of chile de Nuevo Mexico (Hatch for choice), and some salt.
Roll up in tortillas.
These can be nuked (c. 5 minutes), individually wrapped in tin foil for portability, frozen, etc. Best is open-baked, doused in salsa, with a dab of yogurt on top, for c. 40 minutes at the People's Temperature. This is one of the times when store-boughten salsa works better than fresh, since uncooked tomatoes tend to get too watery.
Serve with beer.

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